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The Review - RESTAURANTS with TATIANA VON SAXE
 

The staff at Thai on the Hill will season the dishes to your taste
Spice things up with a fine Thai

HAVING recently returned from Thailand I feel I know now a lot more about Thai cooking. So I decided to try my newly acquired expertise by visiting Thai on the Hill.
On entering the restaurant, at the bottom of Highgate West Hill, the bell tolls from nearby St Anne’s Church were a welcome setting to this lovely area of north London.
The roundabout seen from the windows of the restaurant with Parliament Fields in the background has the feeling of a village green with a pub, shops and other restaurants in the neighbourhood – the scene is not necessarily oriental – but this changes on arrival into the restaurant itself which displays lovely tapestries and decorations from Thailand.
Some steps down Buddha with a lit candle in front presides over the spacious room where marble-top tables are placed. The tables are well-positioned, either next to walls or windows with some in the middle of attractive hexagonal shape.
A very comprehensive menu offers a wide choice. The items are clearly identified as vegetarian, spicy or very spicy but you can still request how spicy you want your food to be. Obviously they have taken English taste into consideration: medium spicy meant medium spicy whilst my experience in Thailand was that medium was very spicy and spicy was much too hot.
The Tom Yung Goong (£4.50) – prawns in a spicy hot and sour lemongrass flavoured soup and the Tom Yung Hed (£3.75) – the vegetarian version with mushrooms were both excellent.
For a main course we shared: Kang keo-wan gai (£6.95) – chicken cooked in green curry paste, coconut milk, bamboo shoots and sweet basil leaves, Moo pad prig (£5.45) – stir-fry pork with chilli, onions and spring onions, Phad Thai prawns £6.50) – stir-fry rice noodles in a Thai tomato paste, bean sprouts, egg and ground peanuts – there is also a vegetarian version of this dish. The green curry paste is typical and we found that it combined well with the coconut rice (£2.20) as was the stir-fry pork with chilli.
The prawns were the best part of the noodles. The quality was first class and the food genuine. Lots of herbs some of which one must chew and leave but without them the food would not be so exotically scented.
The Thai custard and Coconut pancake (£4.50) were green in colour, interesting looking, homemade and tasty.
The friendly staff smiled a lot and was willing to help with explanations of the dishes. With three good glasses of house wine (red and white), the bill came to £54.35 with service included.
I had some bhat in my pocket which I gave to the staff. This was greeted with real delight and even more so when true to Thai tradition I brought my palms together and bowed my head to say goodnight.

Thai on the Hill
109 Highgate West Hill, N6
020 8349 7818
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