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The Review - FOOD & DRINK with CLARE LATIMER
 
Bob the Butcher ­ can we cook it? Yes, we can!

Bob knows his meat so treat yourself and try his rare breed pork, says Clare Latimer

BOB the butcher’ rolls off the tongue and so does his meat. Bob Barratt (Barratts Butchers, England’s Lane NW3. 020 7722 1131) told me that his shop trade is getting better every month, which is not only good for him, but a very good sign that people are taking more interest in what they are eating, where it has come from and, of course, how it is butchered.
I called in to have a chat about his meat and he truly blossomed when he told me the history of the meat he was serving, telling me exactly which farm and how the animals had been reared.
He is doing three rare breed pigs every week and that is written up on the wall behind the counter. They are usually either Tamworth, Mid Whites or Gloucester Old Spots, but this depends on what the farmer has available that week.
Bob also prides himself that all his beef comes from Aberdeen or the Orkney Isles, and on that subject, he has the most wonderful rib steaks I have tasted. British beef can now be exported again so that will soon put the price up, so I would get out and treat yourself now.

Roast Pork with Ginger
Roast belly of pork is quite naughty but deliciously nice and using a rare breed just turns it into a dream come true.
The flavour of the fat and crackling is perfect.

Ingredients
Serves 6
1.5kg belly pork;
Olive oil;
Salt and freshly ground black pepper;
One inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into small strips;
Three cloves of garlic;
A splash red wine or Madeira;
One dessertspoon of flour;
5fl oz chicken stock.

Method
Preheat the oven 220C 425F Gas 7.
Score the pork fat with a sharp knife. Rub the skin with olive oil and salt. Put the ginger and the olive oil in the roasting pan and then place the pork on the top skin side up.
Roast for 30 minutes and then turn heat down to 150C 300F Gas 2 and cook for a further two hours, adding half the red wine.
Check that it is not drying out during the cooking and add the rest of the wine after about one hour.
When the meat is cooked, lift out and leave to rest in a warm place. Drain the juices into a bowl and pick out the garlic cloves.
Spoon off as much fat as possible, returning a tablespoon into the pan.
Add the flour and mix well over a low heat.
Pour in the cooking juices and stir well, scraping up the bits in the pan.
Add the stock to make the gravy.
Check seasoning and serve with the pork. Carve the meat into thick slices.

Pork Escalopes with Orange
There are very few things that I feel strongly about when it comes to food, but imported veal is one of them and for that reason I always use pork as a substitute.
If you can buy British veal then fine but it seems almost impossible to get and I fear that most calves are exported to crate rearing abroad as we do not buy veal as a nation.
Keep asking for British veal and this will help.
Serves 4

Ingredients
50g of butter;
Four 150g pork escalopes;
One dessertspoon of flour;
Juice of two oranges, and a little grated rind;
One teaspoon of fresh thyme, finely chopped;
A dash of brandy;
Salt and black pepper;
A little stock or water, if necessary;
One teaspoon of caster sugar, optional.

Method
Melt the butter in a large frying pan, add the meat, brown on each side for two-three minutes or until cooked through, then transfer to a warm serving dish.
Stir the flour into the butter and then add the orange juice, grated rind thyme, brandy and seasoning.
Stir well and add a little liquid if too thick. Check seasoning, then add the sugar at this point, if wished, and finally, pour over the meat. Cover and keep warm until ready to serve.

Clare’s Kitchen
41 Chalcot Road
Primrose Hill, NW1
Tel: 020 7586 8433
www.clareskitchen.co.uk
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