The Review - FOOD & DRINK- Cooking with CLARE Published: 27 Decemeber 2007
Quince: deliciously fragrant and attractive fruit
Clear the table, there are more delights to come!
If you’re getting sick of cold turkey, Clare Latimer has some fresh ideas to tempt you
WELL the big day is over but there is still a lot of holiday ahead for some and many mouths to feed. The cold turkey and Christmas pud can last a few days… and remember that the pud is wondrous when sliced and fried in the leftover brandy butter then served with whipped cream. Perhaps a few satsumas on the table as well, just to remind us of the vitamin C intake.
Finally, a very Happy New Year to all CNJ readers, and may 2008 bring you lots of smiles!
Quail with quince
This is particularly good for those of you who did not get turkey this Christmas as you can have a whole bird to yourself!
I often keep a few quail in the deep freeze and then they can be whisked out to make a dish in this fashion.
I had friends round to dinner the other evening and at the end of the main course one person asked in a rather nervous fashion what we had just eaten. She was very relieved when I told her it was quail.
If you can’t get quince then dried apricots, prunes or fresh pears will do. It is a very easy and delicious casserole that can be put into a low oven while you go out for a long walk across Hampstead Heath to gather up a good appetite. If it is a long walk, then just reduce the heat of the oven by half.
Serve with mashed potatoes and a green vegetable.
Ingredients Serves 6
4 rashers streaky bacon, cut into strips
1 onion, peeled and chopped
12 cloves garlic, peeled
little olive oil
6 quail, boned – optional
1 large quince, quartered, core removed and chunked
1 parsnip, peeled and chunked
2 carrots, peeled and chunked
salt and freshly ground black pepper
half glass red wine
1 stick cinnamon
2 bay leaves.
Method
Preheat oven to 160C/ 325F/gas 3. Put the bacon, onion, whole garlic cloves and the oil into a heavy-based casserole dish and fry gently for about three minutes to soften the onion.
Add the whole quail and brown slightly on each side. Add the quince, parsnip and carrot and stir well. Then add the salt, pepper, wine, cinnamon and bay leaves and stir again.
Cover and cook in the oven for one hour. Stir gently to move vegetables around and then turn the heat down to low and leave up to one hour before serving.
Sweet chestnut with meringues
This is a very good, quick pudding – one to keep up your sleeve for unexpected guests or when you have run out of energy or ideas. The meringues can be made in advance and kept in an airtight tin and then the rest is a doddle.
I cook my meringues on a higher heat than most as I dislike the dry, powdery sawdust textured “things” that are often served.
Mine are crisp on the outside and soft and mallowy on the inside. I sometimes make them with soft brown sugar and that adds a richer flavour and gives a difference colour. A dollop of vanilla ice-cream on the top can put the icing on the cake so to speak.
Ingredients
Serves 6
3 eggs, separated
175g caster sugar
1 tbsp brandy
1 small tub crème fraiche
1 tin sweet chestnut puree
25g dark chocolate, grated.
Method
Preheat the oven 180C/ 350F/gas 4. Put the egg whites into a dry bowl and whisk until stiff. Gradually add the caster sugar, whisking on maximum until you have a white, stiff, glossy mixture.
Line a baking tray with parchment paper and then spoon out about 12 dollops to make baby mountains. Cook in the oven for about 15-25 minutes or until crisp and very slightly golden brown.
Blend the crème fraiche, brandy and chestnut purée together. Spoon over the meringues and finish with a little grated chocolate.
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