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Sponge cakes are part of a traditional afternoon tea |
Scones and sponges – the crème de la crème
There’s nothing quite like a
full English afternoon tea (as invented in 1840 by the Duchess of Bedford), complete with cucumber sandwiches and gallons of freshly brewed tea, writes
Don Ryan
AS the weather warms up and the days lengthen, the mind is filled with pleasant thoughts of balmy days to come.
It’s time to bring out the barbecue. There’s just so much to look
forward to.
The hustle and the bustle; the constant battle with hyped-up kids, trying to impress on them the danger posed by burning charcoal with the ever-present possibility that blackened, seemingly overcooked chicken will mask undercooked lethal chunks, causing guests to curse as they while away the night on the toilet.
Summer wasn’t always like this. Remember those gentle days of childhood, when we had another way to celebrate the arrival of summer?
It was the way of our forefathers, as safe as a banker’s bonus and as easy to prepare as an MP’s expenses claim. To hell with a barbecue! Let’s revive the good old traditional English afternoon tea.
It was Anna, the Duchess of Bedford, who in 1840 invented the concept of a between-meals repast consisting of bread and butter with oceans of freshly brewed tea. It’s popularity quickly spread, while the scale of the event grew and a substantial menu was developed. Sandwiches, filled with salmon, ham, egg, watercress and cucumber, alongside freshly baked scones, on which was spread butter, strawberry jam and clotted cream. This gastronomic ensemble was rounded off with a fruited cake and even a Victoria jam and cream sponge.
The entire meal was laid out simultaneously on a heaving table and participants tucked in, each eating at their own pace. The informality of the service was counterbalanced by the presentation, which was impeccable and precise. A bone china teapot, sugar bowl with tongs, a milk jug that matched the cups, saucers and plates, were mandatory. The fare was arranged tastefully on tiered cake stands and special plates. Guests “dressed” for the occasion.
Where to buy the best
GETTING good quality ingredients for a traditional afternoon tea was extremely easy. All the supermarkets have upped their game in recent months and the shelves are stacked with reasonably good products in nearly all departments. In this area of London we also have a host of good independent delis and Natural Food shops proffering excellent produce.
Bonne Maman strawberry jam, is available just about everywhere and contains all the right ingredients with no unwanted additions. The St Dalford brand, also widely available, offers a sugar free conserve based on an old French recipe, which employs grape juice as a sweetener.
In Morrisons, I found a Twinings variety box, containing five each of Assam, Earl Gray, Ceylon, Lady Grey and English Breakfast tea bags, enabling me to offer guests a choice of teas – just like the Ritz. The tea, best served in non-metallic teapots, which help coax out the full flavour, was a huge hit and the pots had to be replenished several times.
Budgens in Haverstock Hill offered ham without added water or flavourings and a reduced price pack of Scottish Smoked Salmon, by Bleikers , a Yorkshire family company that also supplies several celebrity chefs.
Clotted cream is usually recommended for afternoon teas and many supermarkets stock it, but I opted for Manor Farm organic double cream, from The Earth Natural Food shop in Kentish Town Road. Thick, rich and tasty, the cream whips up in seconds and is big on flavour. Spread deeply on the scones, on top of some jam, it was for me the highlight of what turned out to be a very successful stress-free little picnic. Less luck with the More Food Ltd, handmade delights, Victoria sponge, it looked great but was expensive and on examination crammed full of E numbers, whey solids and other unnecessary ingredients. We quickly whipped up a home made version to go with a fruited tea brack that had been baked the day before. Good scones are difficult to find, so home-baked is best but The Little Baker shop in Camden High St. have some big fruity ones which, like all their huge range of cakes and buns, represent very good value. |
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