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The Review - FOOD AND DRINK - Cooking with CLARE
Published: 21 May 2009
 
Splendid isolation in Connemara on the west coast of Ireland
Splendid isolation in Connemara on the west coast of Ireland
Delights of a dessert Ireland

Clare Latimer visits a secluded spot on the west coast of Ireland and brings back two of the area’s treats to try before you die!

EVERY year at this time a bunch of us go to one of the most beautiful places in the world – Delphi Lodge at Leenane on the west coast of Ireland. In fact, it is listed in the book 1,000 Things To Do Before You Die.
Prince Charles took over the whole place for total peace and quiet during a stay a few years ago and, apart from our noise, it really is a haven with great food, mountains all around and just pure country at its best.
The first day we drove to Kylemore Abbey where they have the most beautiful eight-acre walled garden divided into two for flowers and vegetables which has been restored by the nuns who live there. We then had a breezy walk at Renvyle along the white sandy beach and unspoilt headland.
The next day we went to the little harbour of Roundstone and ate mussels and oysters in the very atmospheric pub O’Dowd’s. Then, along with five dogs, we walked on a white sand beach as perfect as a desert island, aptly named Dog’s Bay.
After this brisk airing we went to Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, set magically against the 12 Ben Mountains, with 450 acres of land and without doubt having the best view from any dining room, overlooking the snaking salmon river.
We ordered tea and, surprisingly, were only offered fruit cake or apple pie with our cuppa, but it worked very well and both were superb. No sandwiches or cream teas here, and it made a good change.
All the above can be found on the internet so have a browse even if you can’t get there – but my heart certainly lies at Delphi.

Mussels gratin
This dish was served at O’Dowd’s pub in Roundstone, Connemara, and the mussels can’t have been pulled from their ropes more than a few hours before. Serve with Irish soda bread.

Ingredients
Serves 4

2kg mussels, cleaned
50g butter, chilled
50g fresh white breadcrumbs
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed,
Handful parsley, chopped
1 lemon, cut into wedges, to serve.

Method

Make sure all the mussels are tight shut when handled and discard the open ones as they will not be fresh.
Remove any “beards” from them by just pulling with your fingers.
Heat a large, wide pan, tip in the mussels with a splash of water, cover and cook for about one minute or until they are open. Throw away any that don’t open. Remove the top shell from each mussel and discard. Mix the butter, breadcrumbs, garlic and parsley.
Put a layer of half mussel shells on a baking tray. Sprinkle breadcrumbs over each one, then flash under a very hot grill until just golden. Squeeze over some lemon juice and serve warm.

Sticky hedgehog fruit cake
This is the same idea as the Ballynahinch Castle recipe, but I have used the one from my cookbook as it is tried and tested. Their cake has pineapple and raisins so you could try with those ingredients or, better still, take a break and go and try theirs.

Ingredients

Makes about 12 squares
2 dessert apples, peeled, cored and finely diced
120g sticky dates, stones removed and chopped
75g dried apricots, roughly chopped
1 tsp bicarbonate soda
225ml boiling water
120g butter
200g caster sugar
1 egg
1 teasp vanilla essence
225g plain flour
½ teasp salt
For the topping:
75g soft dark brown sugar
50g butter
175g desiccated coconut
225ml milk.

Method

Preheat the oven 180C/ 350F/gas 4. Line a 30 x 35cm deep-sided baking tin with greaseproof paper. Put the fruit and bicarbonate of soda in a bowl and add the boiling water. Stir and set aside for 10 minutes.
Cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy and then add the egg, flour and salt. Beat well.
Stir in the fruit mixture and pour into the prepared tin. Smooth over and bake for 45 minutes.
To make the topping, put the brown sugar and butter into a saucepan and melt gently.
Stir in the coconut and milk. Pour over the top of the cooked cake and bake for a further 20 minutes. Cool in the tin and cut into squares to serve.

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