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Queensway - experiencing difficulties to to the global price crisis |
Is Queensway facing a price crisis?
The trickle down effect of trouble in global rice markets is being felt in the ‘real’ Chinatown
WITH its pungent aroma of sizzling sauces, hanging barbecued ducks and welcoming hosts, Queensway has long been the destination of choice for Chinese food aficionados wanting to avoid the hordes of Chinatown.
Over 30 years, the strip in the heart of Bayswater has built up a reputation as “the real Chinatown” – a place where you can get authentic Chinese grub without paying tourist prices and being harassed by frenzied waiters touting for business.
But this week, chefs in Westminster’s lesser-known Chinese restaurant district are warning that a combination of soaring rice prices, strict immigration laws and a lack of celebrity chef role models are threatening the iconic road.
Some restaurant owners warned that many second-generation Chinese are increasingly turning their backs on the trade to try their luck in more lucrative careers.
It was even suggested that cookery programmes and food critics were to blame for budding restaurateurs dismissing the family business, with a lack of Chinese chefs on TV and a bias in the Michelin star system that prejudices oriental cuisine both cited as cause for concern.
Jason Wong, manager of Hung Tao, one of 13 Chinese restaurants in Queensway, said he may be forced to put prices up if rice gets any more expensive.
He said: “In the last year, rice prices have gone up astronomically. I’ve only put prices up twice in the 12 years we have been here but if things don’t improve we are going to have to look at putting up prices or adjusting the menu.
“Last year it cost around £20 for 20 kilos of rice but now it costs more like £35. The jump is incredible and all the restaurants here are worried about it. It’s not just rice either – cooking oil prices have doubled.”
China has already limited rice exports due to “rapidly declining stocks”, a similar move to India where bad droughts and poor crops have led to low supplies. Industry experts believe the knock on effects have been felt around the world.
But it’s not just the price of rice which is making life hard for Chinese businesses in Westminster.
Mr Wong added: “Finding people to work for what we need to pay is also difficult. It’s a generation thing. Children don’t want to listen to their parents. They believe they can do better in other careers.
“I also think there is too much emphasis on television on chefs like Jamie Oliver – on French and English cuisine. These get recognition with Michelin Stars and Chinese food gets ignored. We need a Chinese chef on television and we need a better system to judge quality. We are not in a crisis but it is definitely worrying. ”
Another owner, who was so worried about the effect on business he asked to remain anonymous, said cutbacks would be inevitable if prices continued to rise. He said: “In Chinatown, things are different because there will always be tourists willing to pay the prices. But around here, people may stop eating out to save money.
“All the owners know each other here and I see a lot of trouble ahead if things continue like they are. We may have to get rid of staff. I don’t think anyone will go out of business but things will have to change.”
The Chinese first began to open restaurants in Queensway in the 1980s – attracted by the comparatively cheaper rates than the West End and the area’s up-and-coming reputation.
The mood in Chinatown in the West End is equally gloomy.
Leslie Ng, who runs the Golden Gate Grocery in Shaftesbury Avenue said restaurant owners had called an emergency meeting last month because of the rice crisis.
He said: “It’s affecting us too. The tourists still come on the weekend but trade is about 20 per cent down.
“We are holding off putting up prices, because we don’t want to scare people away. We will get through it and things are already starting to calm down. It was worse four months ago.” |
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